Rocchetta Mattei: a castle of mysteries and marvels

02/03/2021 - Category: Visit

Just 1 hour's drive from Bologna there's a castle where a miracle medicine was founded, a hippogriff greets you at the entrance and where you can get married within an Esher's painting.

No, I have not exaggerated with Pignoletto.
It's Rocchetta Mattei, one of the best castles in Bologna and Emilia Romagna.

Perfect for adults, kids and all the fans of Harry Potter, it will make you stand jaw-dropping.

Follow me inside?

The new medicine of Cesare Mattei

Cesare Mattei was born in Bologna in 1809 to a rich family.
He founded a bank, was a Parliament deputy, and was a close friend of the Pope.

The key event that marked his life and led to the building of Rocchetta Mattei was his mother's death.

That event produced in Cesare a deep mistrust of traditional medicine. Then he studied and created an alternative medicine that he called electrohomeopathy.

Electrohomeopathy is based on granules enhanced with electricity, which Mattei believed to be able to capture in his fluids.

His purpose was to restore the balance between the body's electric charges and bring the painful part to a neutral state.

The success of these treatments was enormous and immediate. He sold it around the world, especially in China and India.

Mattei founded the first drug multinational company, even mentioned by Dostoevsky in The Brothers Karamazov.

Rocchetta mattei - Gate — *One of the gates of Rocchetta Mattei. Its position was inspired by Copernican's planets constellation.*

The building of Rocchetta Mattei

Rocchetta Mattei was constructed between 1850 and 1871 by Count Cesare Mattei on the site of the Rocca di Savignano, a medieval fortress that had fallen into ruins.

The castle, characterized by its eclectic architectural style, underwent numerous modifications over the years, initially by the count himself and later by his heirs.

After Cesare's death, Rocchetta Mattei didn't live a happy time. During the Second World War, it was occupied and severely damaged by German troops.

In the 60's it became a restaurant and hotel and closed in 1989, with the owner's death.

Rocchetta Mattei reopened to the public in 2015.

Rocchetta mattei bologna - Alhambra — *An arabesque courtyard inspired by Alhambra in Granada*

The symbols of Rocchetta Mattei

Nothing at Rocchetta Mattei is what it seems.

Copernican's planets constellation inspired the design of Rocchetta Mattei.

The clock tower is the center (that would be the Sun) and the halls are the planets that revolve around it.

At the entrance a statue of a lion, a hippogriff (yes Harry Potter's fans, definitely him), and harpies greet you.

Christian, pagan, astrological, and esoteric symbols and references are endless.

Inside an Esher's painting

Room after room the styles change.
Pass through the arabesque representation of Alhambra's courtyard in Granada, to a pentagonal room where Mattei used to receive his patients.

After the entrance, you meet the room of the 90s.

It's there where Mattei expected to celebrate his 90's birthday with other 90 people, also 90 years old. Too bad he died earlier, at the age of 87 (a lot for that time).

But the most surprising place is the chapel which houses Mattei's tomb. It's a miniature of Cordoba's cathedral in Spain, with striped columns and a decorated ceiling.

From the slanting columns to the used materials, you'd feel inside an Esher's painting.

The hidden diamond of Rocchetta Mattei

Among the thousand secrets of Rocchetta Mattei, there's also a diamond.

Legend says it's kept in one of the pyramids that make up Mattei's lab ceiling.

No one knows if it's there, but if you decide to get married in Rocchetta Mattei (yes you can!), you can celebrate your love between the mysteries of a unique place.

Rocchetta Mattei - Entrance — *The entrance of Rocchetta Mattei with statues of a lion, a hippogriff and harpies*

Why visit Rocchetta Mattei

This castle is one of my favorite day trips from Bologna. It's just one hour by car from the city center and in the middle of the Apennine hills.

If you visit Bologna with kids they will love the mysteries and secrets of this place.

Since you are there, you can complete your day trip with a visit to Alvar Aalto church in Riola and Giorgio Morandi's house in Grizzana.

How do I get to Rocchetta Mattei?

The best way to get to Rocchetta Mattei is by car, as it offers the most flexibility and convenience.

The castle is located about 50 km southwest of Bologna, and the drive takes approximately 1 hour.

To get there, take the SS64 Porrettana road via Sasso Marconi, Marzabotto, and Vergato, following the signs for Rocchetta Mattei once you reach Riola.

If you prefer public transport, you can take a regional train from Bologna Centrale station to Riola on the Bologna-Pistoia Porrettana line.

Trains run about every hour, and the journey takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. From Riola station, you have two options to reach Rocchetta Mattei:

By bus: Take the 963 bus line, which stops near the castle. Be sure to check the bus schedule in advance as timings may vary.
On foot: Walk approximately 1.5 km from Riola station to Rocchetta Mattei, a route that takes about 20 minutes.

The total journey by public transport, including transfers, takes around 1 hour and 35 minutes.

For those traveling by train, the ticket from Bologna to Riola is typically under €10, with the bus fare or a short taxi ride being an additional small cost.